Rosemary Lane

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Square Meal Review of Rosemary Lane ?

With its out-of-the-way location, modest dimensions and understated, pubby looks, Rosemary Lane may be the City's quirkiest Californian since kooky museum creator Dennis Severs – yet it conjures the sunny, cosmopolitan spirit of that state with a menu that challenges the seasons, sets French style against Asian inspiration, and puts organic/local/wild produce to the fore. You might start with cauliflower and lemon-thyme flan or seared tuna tataki with black and white sesame dressing, lime vinaigrette and parsley oil before progressing to seared hand-dived Maine scallops with smashed potato and caponata confit or Bardolino-braised lamb shank with Puy lentils, peas and baby broad beans. Prices aren't painful for the inventiveness on display, and wines from the French-led list are affordable too, kicking off with a 2009 Château du Vieux Parc Corbières (£19).

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