Richard Corrigan at Lindsay House

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Square Meal Review of Richard Corrigan at Lindsay House ?

First impressions of Richard Corrigan’s narrow Georgian townhouse are of hushed restraint as diners sit expectantly at closely spaced tables. Don’t be misled: the combination of superlative food, slick (if leisurely paced) service & relaxed conversation gradually engenders feelings of heart-warming bonhomie. Corrigan has a rare talent for creating refined, understated dishes from robust, earthy ingredients – witness a joyous croquette of crubeens (pig’s trotters) served with a side of creamy, crumbled egg yolk. Veal with caramelised sweetbreads & pea cannelloni provided an intense symphony of textures & tastes, while a slightly overcooked fillet of brill was redeemed by a spot-on oyster tempura & punchy fennel purée. To finish, summer berry soufflé with a berry sorbet was the standout from a field that also included rice pudding with poached peaches & ginger. The wine list features many old favourites, but do take advice from the talented young sommelier: you may end up enjoying a sublime sweet Jurançon with your dessert. NB: this restaurant will close in May 2009.

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Richard Corrigan

Since leaving his native Ireland at 17, Richard Corrigan has firmly made his mark on the capital. His reputation was further enhanced in 2008 when his third London site, Corrigan’s Mayfair, opened in the newly refurbished Grosvenor House hotel. His first restaurant, Lindsay House, opened in 1997 and gained a Michelin star two years later. Since then he has revitalised seafood restaurant Bentley’s and teamed up with caterers Searcys to help shape the food at top contracts like the Gherkin and the St Pancras Grand. In 2006 he teamed up with Ryanair founder Tony Ryan to open the Mill at Lyons restaurant in County Kildare, and he recently opened a second Bentley’s site in Dublin.

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