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‘OK it's expensive, but so is a Chanel handbag,' quipped one first-timer after visiting Gordon Ramsay's well-groomed Chelsea flagship. Everyone gets the full treatment as this star-spangled venue
goes through its paces, delivering a ‘truly magical' blend of good manners, silky service, masterly food and aristocratic, special-occasion wines. Following a refit, the dining room has some
luxurious new art-deco features, a ‘liqueur library’ and a ‘chef’s experience’ table where the bar area used to be, but the most significant change is Clare Smyth’s elevation to the role of
resident chef-patron. Far from simply impersonating her master's voice, she is re-establishing Royal Hospital Road as, arguably, the top dining destination of its kind in the capital. You can still
relish the dishes that made this place world-famous (the matchless ravioli of lobster, langoustine and salmon with sorrel velouté, for example), but the real showstoppers are newly minted hits –
from halibut and king crab with cauliflower couscous, ‘finger’ lime and a broth spiced with ras-el-hanout to lemonade parfait with honey, bergamot and sheep’s yoghurt sorbet. ‘When you've had the
best, forget the rest', concludes one fan. Enough said.
Restaurant Gordon Ramsay is one of those stable features on the fine dining scene and how lucky we were when the brother & sister-in-law gave Husband an incredibly generous voucher for lunch at this 3 Michelin star favourite! I had to be extra nice to the husband to merit being his Plus 1, let me tell you! The restaurant is perplexingly shut on the weekends but open on a Bank Holiday Monday, so a reservation duly secured.The lovely sister-in-law raved about it and so we went in with high expectations...
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Bouquets are okay and candy is dandy but nothing says 'Happy Anniversary' to a foodie like a fabulously indulgent three-course lunch at Gordon Ramsay's flagship restaurant in Chelsea. One of only two restaurants in London (and only four in the UK) to hold three Michelin stars, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay is headed up by partner Chef Patron Clare Smyth, 2013 Good Food Guide Chef of the Year and recent MBE.Unassuming at first glance and quietly elegant within, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay is situated on Royal Hospital Road, just around the corner from the Chelsea Physic Garden. The recently refurbished dining area is intimate and unfussy and I was relieved to find myself in varied company, having feared an entire roomful of CEOs and Chanel-clad ladies who lunch. In fact, the ambience was relaxed and genuinely welcoming - unlike the starchy self-importance of some other 'top' restaurants.Greeted and seated, we decided to go with the impressive set lunch menu - considering the location, actually pretty good value at Â£55 per person. The first indication of three-star status was the seamlessly professional and utterly charming maitre d' Jean-Claude; think of a conductor directing an entire orchestra of highly-trained musicians with the tiniest flick of a baton or raised eyebrow. His staff ensured we were settled quickly, checking on drinks, any allergies or dislikes and whether it was a special occasion within minutes of us arriving at the table and he personally welcomed every guest with genuine warmth. Our waiter was friendly and knowledgeable, happy to discuss ingredients and preparation methods as we placed our order. We were then brought an amuse bouche of pea and mint mousse with ricotta and baby vegetables which was fabulous; light but absolutely full of flavour and a lovely summery start to the meal.For the first course I had the tartlet of confit salmon, shaved fennel, radishes, grilled piquillo pepper, quail's egg, rocket and basil, while my companion had the lobster, asparagus and herb tortellini with broad beans, tomato and lobster consommÃ©. If the first bite is with the eye, my first bite of the tartlet was sensational. It was beautifully presented, a larger portion than I had expected (for a sense of actual proportions in the photograph, think about the size of a quail's egg) and delicious from start to finish; a perfect mix of fresh, delicate seasonal flavours. I nabbed a bite of the tortellini, which was also excellent - get used to meal envy here, because you're going to have a real pang every time you see a plate set in front of somebody else.At the risk of stating the obvious for a Michelin-starred restaurant, the wine list is extensive and not cheap; prices run to four figures. On the more unexpected side, the Head Sommelier (and 2012 UK sommelier of the year) is younger than you might expect and, despite his obvious passion for wine, was refreshingly unintimidating and non-judgemental about us deciding against a bottle and ordering instead the Â£6 glasses of Bordeaux Blanc sec - which, incidentally, was really good. The selection of breads - sourdough, bacon and onion brioche, wheaten and pretzel - was excellent, readily replenished and served with a choice of salted or unsalted butter.For our mains we had the miso glazed cod with black quinoa, squid, grilled shiitake mushrooms and lapsang souchong broth, and the roasted rabbit loin with Bayonne ham, salted baked turnips, toasted hazelnuts and pickled mustard seed. Again, these were as beautifully presented as they were delicious, with the individual flavours coming together perfectly; our waiter served the broth at the table, encouraging me to smell it first to appreciate the smoky subtlety. I finished my glass of wine and idly wondered how long it would take a member of staff to notice and offer another. The answer? Forty seconds.Dessert was roasted pineapple with coriander financiers (tiny French almond cakes), coconut sorbet and vanilla cream for me and banana parfait, peanut butter mousse and bitter chocolate sandwich with caramelised bananas for my companion. These were both wonderful, although I don't really have a sweet tooth; if I hadn't been starting to feel quite full, I would have been almost homicidally jealous of the diner at the next table who ordered the cheese. Available at a small supplement, the cheese trolley selection looked and smelled as good as any I have seen in France and was served with a range of accompaniments from grapes to breads and oatcakes.Coffee ordered, extremely happy with the fabulous food and outstanding customer service, and starting to feel a little regretful that this remarkable experience was drawing to a close, I caught a glimpse of something spectacular being placed on a nearby table. A lidded silver dish was uncovered to oohs and ahs, and a theatrically billowing cloud of dry ice. Before I could question a passing waiter, the same dish arrived at our table; it was four bite-size balls of strawberry ice cream encased in white chocolate. These were swiftly followed by a glass tray of the most delicately rose-flavoured turkish delight and rich chocolate ganache, on tiny cake servers to avoid those pesky cocoa stains. Yes they really do think of everything.As if that wasn't enough, we then had a delectable chocolate truffle dessert, complete with single candle, discreetly delivered to the table as a gift for our celebrations. A wonderful touch - but the best was yet to come. Maitre d' Jean-Claude approached the table, leaned close and whispered the question every foodie wants to hear: 'Would you like to see the kitchen?'Expecting the dining room to be the elegantly gliding swan above the water and the kitchen to be the furiously paddling legs beneath, we entered the inner sanctum. Clare Smyth's team were unexpectedly calm and apparently unhurried, although in the way the workings of a Swiss watch would be: meticulously synchronised. Clare took a minute out to chat although she and her Head Chef personally check each and every dish before it reaches the diners and the standards are beyond exacting.Restaurant Gordon Ramsay deserves every one of its three Michelin stars; the food is exquisite and if anyone wants to learn about customer service, then these guys have it absolutely nailed. This was an outstanding dining experience: not fussy, not pretentious, just totally focused on the diner and delivering more than they promise - this is the dining equivalent of being ushered to the front of the queue, past the rope and bouncers and straight into the VIP lounge.Yours, lunching it large, Girl About Town xx
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Left to my own devices, I may not have made it to this exorbitantly lavish 3 Michelin star meal. It would have been an insurmountable challenge to see out the meal without wondering which flights I could book for the same price. Fortunately for my tastebuds, on this particular day, the weighing up of opportunity costs was snatched from my hands after my sister declared that she wanted to go to Restaurant Gordon Ramsayfor her birthday. And who am I to disappoint?Sat alone at the table (having turned up early for the first time in my life), I re-hydrated with a passion fruit nectar from France. This was the most delicious passion concoction since the fresh juice I guzzled by the gallon on honeymoon in Zanzibar...
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Life is so often a case of feast or famine isn't it? As the saying goes, you wait ages for a bus then three come along at once. I can think of so many aspects of my life where that has been an accurate analogy but none so much as my dining habits at the moment. Ledbury last week (blog post coming soon), Five Fields next week all bracketed by various foreign excursions and wine tastings. Yes, I know Iâm a very lucky girl but my liver and my waistline are not thanking me. So it was with some trepidation that I faced a mammoth dinner at Gordon Ramsay Hospital Road for H's 39th birthday. Yep into his 40th year so may as well do it in style. Despite still bearing Gordon Ramsay's name the restaurant has had a bit of an overhaul that goes beyond just aesthetics. In April 2013 Clare Smyth became co owner and therefore chef patron and the refurb of the dining area (and addition of a new lounge and spirits library) reflect heavily on her influence.I've been to Hospital Road once before some years ago and had a wonderful meal although its a little hazy as our table wasn't until 10pm so a few pre-prandials had been consumed in the Library Bar at the Lanesborough. I do have the wine induced, late night recollection of accidentally sending the petit fours back for "not having enough dry ice smoke- they're not Harry Potter enough". I was therefore hoping that this visit would have much more decorum which it did, for the most part.I arrived early and spent a happy quarter of an hour playing with the wine bible whilst sipping an Ayala kir royale and munching on some fluffy little gruyere gougeres. All the big hitters you would expect from a 3 Michelin star restaurant are in there from the full gammut of Bordeaux Crus, through Burgundy and with a decent selection of non French, both old world and new. A 1947 Cheval Blanc for Â£6,000 or 2001 DRC for Â£7,800 anyone?! Faced with a multitude of courses for which it would have been hard to get one white and one red to suit all we gave sommelier Jan Konetzki a (somewhat) free rein over wine (he's even got his own flashy website here) and we were pretty happy with the results especially as people swapped in and out different wines to suit their tastes -we must have been nightmare clients. A bottle of subtle biscuity Henriot champagne kicked proceedings off nicely and made a great companion to canapes of quail's egg, black pudding and pork scotch eggs, cured salmon in shiso and Vietnamese style steamed buns with a soft truffled filling.You have three menu options to choose from between a la carte, the menu prestige or the seasonal menu. They are quite relaxed about mixing and matching across the tasting menus and are genius at taking into account allergies etc.An amuse bouche of cep cannelloni topped with fried quails egg arrived setting the scene for a long line of dishes with pour-at-the-table sauces, in this case a smoked chestnut puree. I can never quite decide if application of sauces at the table is a practical thing to stop waiters sloshing it around en route and spoiling the aesthetic of the plate or if its all part of the theatre, whichever it feels like it is de rigeur everywhere at the moment. Champagne bottle well and truly wrung out we moved onto the first dish proper; a poached Scottish lobster tail withlardo di Colonnata, pickled vegetables and coral vinaigrette. The lobster itself was on the firm side but very tasty. The first wine that the sommelier suggested was an unusual Navazos niepoort 2011. At 12.5% its striking towards the upper end of white from an alcohol perspective and veers into dry sherry territory on the palate. It proffered very little on the nose at all leading most of the group to change in favour of a soave style Italian from Giuseppe Quintarelli which was a nice easy drinker but much less interesting. I stuck with it though and was rewarded by a comparatively complex and unusual wine; definitely not a glugger but a quality wine.The basic description 'Carbonara' of the dish that followed doesn't even begin to do it justice. It goes straight into my top ten dishes of all time. It is only 'carbonara' in so far as bacon/ham and eggs are involved, that is where all similarity ends. A giant raviolo is filled with smoked mashed potato and a soft hens egg. The pasta bundle is then wrapped in roast iberico ham and topped with caramelised onions before being submerged in a swirl of onion veloute and four year old parmesan foam. It was just a plate of awesomeness that could never have been too big. The fact that it was paired with a lengthy & buttery Pouilly Fuisse 'La Roche' 2008 from Domaine Barraud resulted in a combination as near to perfection as I can imagine. So good that I'm going to hunt some down for Christmas drinking. I was far from convinced by the original wine suggested to go with the beef short rib slowly cooked over charcoal with roasted langoustine, lapsang souchong broth and English wasabi; a Suertes del Marques from Tenerife and I certainly wouldn't drink a bottle of it but to give the sommelier his due it was a perfect match for the beef and langoustine. The wine was light enough not to overpower the langoustine but had a smoky, aromatic edge that blended well with the lapsang. The style of cooking at GRHR has definitely taken on an Asian twist since my last visit, the beef in particular being something I could have eaten in any number of Tokyo eateries. Venison loin was served on a bed of polenta, cep baked in chestnut leaf and Tasmanian mountain pepper. A waiter came to grind pepper onto the dish at the table which, combined with the polenta, all felt rather Italian trattoria (it turned out he was Italian rather appropriately). I can't honestly tell you whether the fact it was Tasmanian mountain pepper made a difference to the overall dinner but it sounds good. (Well) hung for over 30 days, the venison had an extremely gamey taste which may be a little too much for some. Although cooked to perfection it wasn't the best venison dish I've ever eaten.It was, however, accompanied by another rather moreish wine, this time a Chilean blend of Syrah, Cab Sauv, Carmenere, Mourvedre & Merlot 'Coyam' 2010 from Emiliana in Colchagua. It retails at around Â£15 a bottle and is available from the Wine Society and Tanners. As you would expect from a blend, it packs a reasonable punch with dark plummy notes. Whilst we are all used to H managing to throw his food and wine around the table (we've tried housetraining him to no avail) on this occasion he was adamant the blood red stain spreading across the tablecloth wasn't his fault and turns out it was true. Mr Konetzki had got a bit over enthusiastic with the pouring. As a result he was threatened by the other staff with "one of Clare's punishments", this made the mind boggle resulting in a game of thinking up suitable punishments involving kitchen utensils for various possible aberrations (bread roll dropped on the floor? Beating with a chinois..... etc) All I can say is that it seems like he was banished to the dungeons to await his fate as we didn't see him again for the rest of the evening.Vacherin with white truffle was a cardiac in a ramekin. Silky smooth with a generous sprinkling of Alba truffle. Most of went for a slightly astringent viognier to cut through the grease and one of our number went with a Jurancon which ordinarily I would love but remain unconvinced of its match with the slices of Alba truffle. I went back to that Pouilly Fuisse and was glad I did. Green apple and lime sorbet with shiso, avocado and eucalyptus was realistically on the menu as a palate cleansing pre dessert but became one of the highlights of the entire meal. The eucalyptus jelly was delicate but unusual and contrasted perfectly with the apple and the fizzy sherbet added yet another textural dimension. As one of our group said "I don't normally like apple but I love this!". Smoked chocolate cigar with blood orange and cardamom ice cream was a delight and a piece of art on a plate. The soft chocolate filling had taken on a truly smoky, slightly salted flavour and the ice cream an inspired match thatI've already had a stab at copying at home. I went off piste and had a glass of Vin de Constance with it purely on the basis that I love it. Not the best match ever perhaps but I was beyond caring so much anymore. Highlights of the evening? The 'carbonara' with that amazing pouilly fuisse, the smoked chocolate cigar and the really rather lovely German sommelier. I'm hoping that they've let him out of the cellar. If you walk past and hear distant shouting, please call for help. On second thoughts don't, who wouldn't want to be trapped in that cellar?!9/10Gordon Ramsay68, Royal Hospital Road, London.020 7352 4441 This article is my first attempt at entering the Monthly Wine Writing Challenge (#MWWC5)
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HomeThis is the infamous Gordon Ramsay’s 3 Michelin Star flagship restaurant, located in one of the nicest area of London, Chelsea.I’m a big fan of Ramsay through both his cooking and TV show but never had the chance to try his flagship restaurant, I were only able to go to Petrus and Bread Street Kitchen...
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We all know who Gordon Ramsay is, or at least we think we do, it's much more likely we are familiar with a character generated for television than the real Gordon. One thing is that with a vast corporate group and TV career, it's not exactly clear how much influence he has even at his eponymous restaurant. There are definitely some Ramsay classics on offer, and I guess he must be aware of suppliers, inspiration behind the menu's and the design of the rooms, but what is clear is his skill in choosing the right people to run an important flagship venue. Indeed this is the keystone of his empire, as the esteem of having 3 Michelin Stars under his belt is an essential part of his audience generating power. The restaurant in Royal Hospital Road has undergone some changes recently, the front of house has been refurbished and more importantly a shift has been made in highlighting the considerable talents of the head chef, Clare Smyth, who has overseen a change of menu's, including a vegetarian menu, something I had not noticed on the website before the recent changes.We arrive on a wet Tuesday morning to a warm welcome, and were immediately seated. The room is luxuriously decorated in a neutral but pleasing colours, and surprisingly small, I believe just over a dozen tables are available. The lighting was better than the photo's indicate, the spot lights not the best for a mobile phone camera. We order a glass of rather fine Billecart-Salmon Brut RosÃ© Champagne, and are brought the menu's, with the staff being well aware of my wife requiring the vegetarian menu's. A choice of a la carte, set lunch or tasting menu's are available, with the vegetarian menu offered in parts as a la carte, or in its entirety as a tasting menu. The maitre d', the charming Jean-Claude Breton introduced himself and explained the menu's, and after we had made our choices the sommelier arrived to recommend a matching glass of wine with our courses. Jean-Claude runs an excellent team, the service throughout lunch was top notch, every move carefully choreographed down to a tee.Bread was fantastic, a choice of bacon and onion brioche, a white sourdough, a wheatgerm and a white glazed roll of sorts. I chose the brioche and sourdough, my wife the sourdough and the roll. The sourdough was truly excellent, as good as the one at Hedone, and the brioche matching it by being as close to perfect as one can imagine, having a huge depth of onion and bacon flavour, and was unbelievably light.The amuse bouche was a glass dish with ricotta, pea and mint mousse, in these were set some tiny vegetables and flower petals to resemble a garden, and was as delicious as it was pretty. The mousse held excellent flavour, and restaurant obviously sources the best vegetables it can, with the tiny radish tasting lovely. We were recommended a glass of Condrieu âLes Vallinsâ, domaine Blanc Christophe for our starters.My first course was Poached Scottish lobster tail with lardo di colonnata, vegetables Ã la grecqueand coral vinaigrette. The lobster was of good size, cooked perfectly, soft and flavourful. Each mouthful was raised by a sliver of rich lardo, the crunch of the lilliputian carrots, radishes and artichokes, each beautifully prepared and lightly pickled, and the fragrant tarragon rich coral vinaigrette. My wife's starter was a Assiette of spring vegetables braised en cocotte with PÃ©rigord truffle. Again some supreme vegetables were in evidence, tiny carrots, purple new potatoes, beans, spring onions, radishes and turnips in a pretty presentation, with the truffle sauce being added at the table. These were absolutely exquisite vegetables, buttery and full of flavour, with the truffle sauce adding an earthy element.My main was a stunning suckling pig dish, a selection of cuts from nose to toe, slices of moist loin on a bed of potatoes and spring onions, a fabulous sausage, a brilliantly cooked square of crisp and sticky pork belly, a vibrant green cabbage leaf stuffed with jowl, rich and savoury and a hunk of gammon hock complete with tiny pineapple ring. To balance this some gorgeous pieces of apple, raw and cooked, a velvety apple puree and awesome jus. This was one of the finest pork dishes I have ever had and one of the best main courses I can remember. My wife's main was a really well executed ravioli, containing a poached egg and smoked potato, on a bed of broad beans, with a generous serving of parmesan sauce being applied at the table. This too ranked as one of her best dishes in a long time, with the sticky yolk, umami rich parmesan and smokiness of the rich, buttery mash being a perfect match. For my main I had a glass of KÃ©frankos from Sopron in Hungary, and my wife another glass of the Condrieu.Having walked past a fully loaded cheese trolley with a host of excellent choices, I couldn't resist sharing a plate. The standouts were a Scottish Cashel Blue and a Pouligny-Saint-Pierre. What must be mentioned were some stunning accompaniments, some amazing grapes with a fragrant rose flavour, a great fruit and nut bread, some cheese crispbreads, and fantastic little oat cakes.Pre-dessert was a glass of passion fruit soup topped with a yoghurt foam, this was drunk through a large glass straw and was a perfect palate cleanser, clean, sharp and refreshing.Unusually, we chose desserts at the start of lunch. We didn't have to, but they wanted notice if we were to have the Tarte Tatin and souffle. However, having seen pictures elsewhere, I thought we should share the Assiette de l'Aubergine, as I thought this was a plate with 3 miniature desserts. What we actually got was a fantastic surprise, you know when you have a menu and all the desserts sound great and you can't decide what to have? Well Gordon realised this, and solved this problem with a genius solution, by just giving you one of everything.At first a large plate was placed on table holding the lemonade parfait, bitter chocolate cylinder and blackcurrant, fennel and yoghurt genoise, this was followed by a miniature tarte tatin. Two small creme brulee's were then placed in front of us, these were excellent, with a base of agen prunes, some quality vanilla in the creme and a thin slice of crystalised lime on top. As soon as finished these and we were contemplating how to start on the remainder, some space was cleared and a coconut souffle was added! We started on the souffle, this was absolutely top class, with rising high, technically perfect with an excellent coconut flavour, it came with a terrific lime and mandarin sorbet to cut through the sweetness. The tarte tatin has been a regular on the menu since the restaurant opened, and had an excellent blend of butter, caramel and apple. We tried the lemonade parfait next, it was delicious, and definitely captured lemonade flavours rather than just lemon, with it's ring of spun honey a technical marvel and would have been a perfect choice if we only had to have one. The blackcurrant, yoghurt and fennel genoise was soft and light, and more subtle the violet sugar underneath adding another dimension. Finally we split the chocolate cylinder, which featured bitter chocolate, a light mousse and a particularly nice ginger flavoured mousse and caramel. Every single dish in the assiette was superb, and as a whole one of the most generous desserts I've ever had, we were laughing and joking at the sheer number of plates on the table. I might suggest skipping the cheese course if you have ordered this! I recommend this to anyone who likes their puddings to go out of their way to try, you won't get any better anywhere.Coffee arrived with mignardise, one a staple of the restaurant, a theatrical dish streaming smoke from dry ice containing some lovely white chocolate truffles with strawberry ice cream centres, mint chocolate ganache's impaled on tiny silver trowels to keep fingers clean, a nifty invention I've not seen before and some light, almost translucent rose turkish delights.The bill came to Â£360, at the upper end of what you will pay in London, although well justified as our lunch exceeded my expectations. Although I knew it would be excellent 3 star food and service, and I knew that Clare Smyth is one of the finest chefs around, I didn't realise just how good everything would be. I guess lack of buzz on food forums and blogs and it's absence from the lists of the current popular modernist restaurants, with their fancy techniques and foraging had influenced me a little. I am glad to have been proven otherwise. Every element of the meal featured the finest you could have, right down to accompaniments with the cheese course. With a sophisticated and thoughtful vegetarian menu, some brilliant starters and main courses and the pudding to end all puddings, the meal and service was a perfect example of what the very best that fine dining has to offer.Bacon and onion brioche, white sourdough.Amuse bouche of ricotta, pea and mint mousse.Poached Scottish lobster tail with lardo di colonnata, vegetables Ã la grecque and coral vinaigretteAssiette of spring vegetables braised en cocotte with PÃ©rigord truffleSuckling pig, crispy belly, roasted loin, spiced shoulder sausage, chou farci with crushed potatoes and spring onionsSmoked potato and poached henâs egg ravioli with parmesan emulsion and broad beansCheese.Agen prune crÃ¨me brÃ»lÃ©eLemonade parfait with honey, bergamot and sheepâs milk yoghurt sorbet. Bitter chocolate cylinder with coffee granitÃ© and ginger mousseCaramelised tarte Tatin of apples with Tahitian vanilla ice cream (for two)Blackcurrant, fennel and yoghurt gÃ©noiseCoconut soufflÃ© with mandarine and lime sorbetWhite chocolate and strawberry ice cream truffles.Mignardise.Restaurant Gordon Ramsay
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such a fantastic meal we had at this tiny slip of a restaurant just around sloane square. this blog seems to play almost embarrassing tributes to the gordon ramsay establishments (such as my still-favourite meal at petrus) but I have had such a lovely time at both restaurants – I went with high expectations and came away satisfied, and you don’t often get to say that about many places.this was a celebration lunch for graduation, and also one of the first times I’ve brought my parents to a fine-dining restaurant, as such. we eat very well and rather widely, but my family has a dislike for fussy food – which usually refers to the over-decorated western establishments with more emphasis on aesthetics than substance – which was why even though I had been to this restaurant two years ago and had a fantastic time, I had more than a little trepidation on making reservations here...
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just another food blog Home Restaurant Reviews A-Z Pop-ups, events & openings About me Blogs I like ContactTanner & Co Heliot at the HippodromeRestaurant Gordon RamsayPosted on May 30, 2013 by SamphireAndSalsifyRestaurant Gordon Ramsay business cardIn 1998 Gordon Ramsay opened his eponymous restaurant on Royal Hospital Road in Chelsea and in 2001 it was awarded three Michelin stars – the highest possible. Now chef patron Clare Smyth is the only female in the UK to hold such status.The recently refurbed dining room was absolutely beautiful. It’s only a small space seating 45 or so but it was flooded with natural light and the upholstered chairs and plush carpets made for a very comfortable place to sit...
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