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With two-Michelin-starred Quattro Passi in Nerano already under his belt, celebrated Italian chef Antonio Mellino is now delivering the goods in Mayfair – albeit not to the same elevated level. The
cooking is apparently inspired by the Campanian coast of southern Italy, but forget any images of sun-dappled cucina povera: instead, the kitchen replaces simplicity with ostentation, drawing
attention to the quality of ingredients and the work required to prepare them. Sardinian pani carasàu (aka music-paper bread) is embossed with transparent courgette leaves set like pressed flowers;
octopus salad with potatoes and green beans is as pertly fresh as a 1950s Sophia Loren; while a golden fried ‘Madame Piedmontese’ veal chop has miraculously soft, “young” meat pointed up with baby
carrots on the side. A phalanx of charming, suited staff work their way around the luxuriously appointed dining room, although there’s a slightly stiff feel to proceedings.
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