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It might be a ‘bit of a trek’ for non-locals, but this sympathetically restored Victorian gin palace is worth the voyage, according to impressed readers. Dark parquet flooring, Air Force-blue walls
& a striking bar make a first-class drinking area, & the chandeliered dining room offers intimacy for those hankering after the ‘delicious’ food. Start with cured, pickled & smoked fish
– from pepper-cured tuna to oak-smoked eel – or the gutsy pig’s head fritters with sauce gribiche, then rainbow trout with brown shrimps & almond butter, finishing with honeycomb ice-cream.
Service is ‘pleasant & friendly’, & drinkers can choose homemade lemonade, regularly changing ales, or something from the stupendous wine list (majoring in Pinot Noir & boutique
vineyards) – perhaps accompanied by a bar snack of chorizo Scotch quail’s egg.
More a magazine than a list of wines, it is a cheerful riot of quotes, jokes, facts and cartoons. But, love or hate the presentation, there is no arguing with the breadth of wines on offer – 20 of them by the glass. It majors on Europe, and the gentrification of Shepherd’s Bush is evident with some of the trophy wines on offer. It’s unlikely that QPR supporters of the 1970s who stopped here before home games would have wanted a 1961 Barolo…
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