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Success with The Princess of Shoreditch and The Lady Ottoline has paved the way for their owners’ third gastropub, located amid Islington’s grand stucco terraces. Eat in the bar or the cosy dining
room from a sensibly concise menu that takes its cue from the pub’s meaty moniker. Pork rillettes offer a well-judged balance of silken fat and flavoursome flesh, or you could start with blood
pudding, endive and orange. Portions are pretty daunting, so removing one ingredient from, say, velvety duck breast on beetroot, cabbage and borlotti beans with tomato and kumquat might be an idea.
If you still have room, pud might include tangy lemon posset topped with fresh peach. Fruity Pays d’Oc kicks off an approachable wine list, while satisfying craft beers and cider include Bath Gem
and Hackney Brewery’s excellent Golden Ale. Service is brisk and good-natured.
The choice of venue for my birthday lunch was based on a nice visit to The Pig and Butcher last summer where we parked ourselves on the benches outside and had a few things from the snack menu. We dug the mini burger and The Blonde was particularly enamoured with the ‘mustard dance’- a serving phenomena exclusive to The Pig and Butcher (as far as I’m aware, anyway) whereby a charming waitress in a low cut top helps you to mustard. There’s a bit of dipping towards the table, a fair amount of jiggling as the condiment is tapped off the spoon onto the plate, and then there’s three varieties of mustard to work your way through. Beyonce aint got nothing on these girls...
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