Pheasant at Keyston

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Occupying a long, low whitewashed thatched building in the middle of a tiny, well-heeled Cambridgeshire village, this amenable foodie destination still has its full quota of rustic beams and open fires – although the food is imaginative, sure-footed stuff packed with cosmopolitan flavours from the Med and beyond. Shellfish tagliatelle is dressed with saffron, dill and seaweed, John Dory is char-grilled on the bone, and glazed Barbary duck breast might appear with roast beetroot, chorizo, young carrots, pickled cherries and thyme sauce. There are also plenty of no-nonsense ‘traditional classics’ for those who prefer Caesar salad, steak and chips or sausages with crushed new potatoes, while puds promise anything from plum trifle to lemon posset with poached rhubarb. Former owner John Hoskins MW oversees the grown-up 100-bin wine list, which offers bags of top-class drinking. “Excellent atmosphere” too.

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