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Square Meal Review of Palmers ?

Palmers, a good-natured ‘father & sons’ operation on the Roman Road, feels like a labour of love. Though the ‘urban’ location, dreary view (of No 8 buses hurtling by) & bland blond wood don’t exactly sizzle, the thoughtful ‘fantastically executed’ & ‘keenly priced’ modern European bistro food certainly does. Neck of lamb fillet, an often-overlooked cut, doesn’t feel like second best here when teamed with fluffy polenta gnocchi & purple-sprouting broccoli. Monkfish ceviche, salmon Wellington with mussels, & aubergine parmigiana with courgette salad, suggest the meat-favouring kitchen can do ‘pescatarian’ & vegetarian, too. Menus change regularly & include a bargain £10 Sunday roast. The limited wine list ‘feels a bit steep’ but – just about – does the job. A ‘welcome addition to the area’ with ‘no airs & graces’ & a ‘really relaxed, easy atmosphere’.

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