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One of Orrery’s regulars fondly likens it to an Airbus A380 – a comparison that refers to the long, slender dimensions and circular window panels of the ‘white and light’ first-floor dining room,
with its pale wooden screens affording some privacy between tables. There’s also a jewel-toned bar and appealing roof terrace, but impeccably served French food is the main draw. Supplements may
make the fixed-price menu feel like a two-tier system, but at least the cooking is on the level: try gravadlax with horseradish goats’ cheese and dill granité, followed by ‘mind-blowingly
excellent’ tournedos Rossini with sauce périgourdine or Ibérico pork with sage, polenta, baby artichokes and Calvados jus. To finish, explore the cheese trolley or plump for a Valrhona chocolate
tart with Armagnac prunes and passion fruit sorbet – plus something sticky from the extensive list of high-class, reasonably priced wines.
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