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The Grade II-listed Victorian building that formerly housed Indian star Zaika has been taken over by the group behind Michelin-starred Tamarind and transformed into a suave all-day destination for dining, socialising and entertaining. The kitchen is headed up
by international high-flyer Massimiliano Blasone (previously of Apsleys
at The Lanesborough), whose contemporary European food majors on clever use of textures and creative presentation. Silky slices of venison are served on creamy artichoke purée with crunchy
mustard-seed sauce and crispy fried salsify, while a meltingly rich dish of ‘soft eggs’ features layers of amaranth and parmesan cream topped with prosciutto powder. To follow, our classic beef
entrecôte with intense black pepper sauce was well executed, and there was plenty to cheer about when it came to a stylishly deconstructed Black Forest dessert. An elevated Champagne table,
‘restorative’ cocktails, keenly priced wines and friendly, polished service are further pluses.
Kensington High Street has a shiny new restaurant - well one replacing another at least. On the former site of Zaika, a restaurant which in its heyday had a great following - but upon my last visit to Zaika it was all a bit confused, and actually that part of it hasn't really changed. Housed in a former bank it really is a stunning room. With its shiny new paint job, it may detract from its original features but once the crowds come in you really see why it's been decked out like this, it feels expensive and it feels like it should be housing celebs - all very Kensington...
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