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Square Meal Review of Olivo ?

The eldest member of Mauro Sanna’s small family of Sardinian restaurants remains a popular destination for office workers and locals who appreciate its friendly charm. The gold-and-blue colour scheme is starting to show its age, but regulars still pack the place – particularly for the decent-value lunch menu. Char-grilled radicchio with speck or baby cos lettuce salad with pecorino dressing sound appetising, ahead of Sardinian malloreddus pasta with homemade sausage and tomato sauce or calf’s sweetbreads accompanied by green beans sautéed with ham; after that, check out the Sardinian cheeses or lemon and mascarpone cake. A few extra dishes such as cassola (a regional fish stew) are added to the evening carte – although prices go up as the sun goes down. Like its siblings Oliveto, Olivomare and Olivocarne, Olivo’s all-Italian wine list makes a feature of Sardinia.

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