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Square Meal Review of Motcombs ?

Affable Irishman Phillip Lawless sells ‘atmosphere not gourmet fireworks’, and over the past 30 years he has turned Motcombs into a Belgravia bastion treasured by the racing set, ‘rugger buggers’, local suits and pretty women. There’s a snappy bar and bistro on the ground floor, while the more formal restaurant downstairs is bedecked with paintings by the likes of Bugatti and Whistler – plus snug corners and a discreet, sought-after ‘engagement table’ for popping the question. The same menu is available throughout, and it’s peppered with old faithfuls that Lawless wouldn’t dare replace: fishcakes with lobster sauce, steak sandwiches, crab linguine, Thai curry or calf’s liver with pancetta, alongside a few daily specials. The food is supported by a broadly based international wine list including loads of bubbly and magnums for celebratory toasts.

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