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Square Meal Review of Massimo ?

Grand and glamorous, this David Collins-designed dining room is always a talking point thanks to its towering Corinthian columns, mosaics and lavish interiors. Dominating one end of the room, the raw bar is a chic spot for top-drawer oysters and ceviche with a glass of fizz, all delivered by ‘attentive’ staff. Following the departure of eponymous Italian chef Massimo Riccoli, the main menu now features a more conventional roster of upmarket trattoria dishes – although the kitchen is back on song. A simple starter of al dente tagliolini with fresh crab delivers a pleasing chilli kick, while red mullet with sautéed kale and razor clams boasts a zesty lemon and Pinot Grigio sauce. The well-heeled international clientele often include A-list hotel guests, but dining at Massimo tends to be rather restrained – perhaps because of its size and lofty prices.

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