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Square Meal Review of Mar I Terra ?

Comfort food española is the forte at Mar I Terra: big fat wedges of tortilla, meatballs & garlicky braises. Such cooking makes the place feel rather old-fashioned, provincial even, in comparison with Soho’s new-wave tapas bars & their flex-the-plastic ingredients. Here you’ll find home cooking, never flawless but unpretentious & cheap at £3.70 to £7.95 a throw. Don’t expect beauty & precision on the plate: sautéed baby broad beans with flecks of pata negra ham were overpowered by unevenly cooked onions; house salad of rocket, endive & Manchego was also sloppily finished. Seating in the small turquoise-walled room (hung with cheery paintings & a Valencia football shirt) is at tables only – there’s no bar at which to snack & go. A pity, as the fully annotated, all-Spanish wine list offers plenty by the glass (all under a fiver), quaffable house at £12.95 & big pitchers of sangria.

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