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Square Meal Review of Malabar ?

A local fixture since 1983, Malabar peddles a smart & upscale version of Indian cookery that encompasses traditional spicing & flavours with a few modern innovations. Crisp white tablecloths, parquet flooring & leather banquettes chime well with the upmarket location & the kitchen delivers the goods. Starters include the usual tandooris & tikkas alongside char-grilled chicken livers or sweetcorn with chillis. Mains are generally standard curry-house stuff (think kormas & dhansaks enlivened with plenty of fresh herbs), but vegetable sides offer a touch more invention – kayla foogath comprises slices of banana with ginger, mango powder & black salt. On Sundays, the place feels a bit like a lazy pub, with the papers to read & families helping themselves to a generous £12 buffet – note that kids eat for free.

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