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Forget the new Nordic zeitgeist and foraged minimalism, Madsen warmly celebrates traditional Scandinavian cooking in a calm and harmonious setting of painted brick, pale wood furnishings and
towering bookshelves, with hints of eco-friendliness in the recycled paper menus and filtered water. First-timers can ease in gently with malty rye-bread sandwiches topped with pink roast beef and
horseradish rémoulade or juicy meatballs on potato salad with pickled cucumber. Others might indulge in platters of marinated herring with curry spices, dill or onion, with shots of aquavit
provided by engagingly smiley staff. Expect a touch more culinary licence at dinner – chicken breast stuffed with bacon in mustard sauce may not be wholly Scandi, but it's deliciously good value
for Chelsea. By contrast, the quirky beers are 100 per cent Nordic.
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