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There’s something "deeply soothing" and reassuringly familiar about Le Gavroche: diners come here to revel in fine food, luxurious comfort and perfectly choreographed service, without distraction
from designer uniforms or big look-at-me spaces – although a new six-table private room called the Chef’s Library is bound to be coveted by those who like dining amid shelves of cookery books. The
kitchen has recently been brought bang up to date, but top-end ingredients and unreformed haute cuisine are still the norm on the ever-evolving menu: mousseline of lobster with caviar and Champagne
butter sauce now sits alongside fragrant celeriac consommé with beautifully crafted spinach tortellini or a superb concoction of squab pigeon wrapped in a crispy pancake, sweetened with an
exemplary Madeira jus. Occasional misfires are not unknown, but they’re an exception to the rule. The cheeseboard and vast leather-bound wine list are both objects of desire, but beware: apart from
the excellent-value set lunch (£52.60 including water, wine and coffee), prices are "higher than a Baumgartner skydive" and the bill is best given to those with pacemakers already fitted.
Apologies in advance for the quantity and quality (or lack thereof) of photos in this post. We were the youngest diners in the restaurant by at least twenty years, and with my fellow patrons not being of the blogging and tweeting generation, I felt conspicuous, in such an esteemed establishment, taking the few photos I did.Le Gavroche is the opposite of contemporary in decor, but without being staid. You feel comfortable in your surroundings, as if you're sitting in a favourite wealthy uncle's library. There is no background music - Le Gavroche gets booked up months in advance and so can rely on there being a soundtrack...
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