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Few restaurants mix elegance and informality quite like Rowley Leigh’s ‘effortlessly stylish’ eatery atop Whiteleys. The gorgeous space, complete with stunning windows from the original 1911
building, is beautifully kitted out with timeless art-deco-style interiors, while the well-regarded cooking places a premium on seasonality. We enjoyed seared mackerel fillet with gooseberry purée
ahead of slices of lamb, cooked pink, with chilli and marjoram – both light and packed full of flavour. Democratic prices offer possibilities for everyone – some readers rave about the ‘great
value’ set menu, others prefer to line up a dozen Galway natives from the oyster bar, before opting for grilled Dover sole with hollandaise and a bottle of Puligny-Montrachet. Service is spot on
and chef Rowley keeps an eye on proceedings from the open kitchen. Note: you can BYO wine on Monday nights.
I wanted to love it. I used to love Kensington Place, in its early days and I love Rowley Leigh‘s writing in the FT, but I didn’t love this. I didn’t hate it either, though, I just wasn’t excited by it.This is the restaurant at the top of the former Whiteleys department store and occupies a corner end of the top floor of the building. The setting is incongruous. To get the restaurant, you need to walk past various cheap and cheerful chain restaurants and the overall effect is very American mall. You would never guess that at the end of the corridor you would find this elegant and atmospheric room. Surrounded by what appear to be the original and very attractive leaded light windows, the decor is pure 1930s art deco – successfully done...
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