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Square Meal Review of La Bourse ?

Occupying the trading floor of the old London Stock Exchange, La Bourse is a ’very impressive all-day package’, with polished brass, soft black leather and glossily monochrome decor adding some bull-market swagger to proceedings. The theatricals begin with window displays of macarons or crustacea, while inside it offers quick turnaround bars and smart surrounds for more formal dining. Nibble on something from the ‘Comptoir Café’ menu or explore the full works: smoky steaks and grilled lobsters get rave reviews, but the menu also mixes contemporary riffs with ideas inspired by haute-cuisine: scallops ‘flamenkusche’ finished with onion marmalade and bacon emulsion is a good call, although most ‘Cheshire cat grins’ are reserved for Paris-Brest, a luscious pastry-and-cream dessert. Staff are keen to please, the cheeseboard is ‘thoroughly decent’ and the 300-bin wine list predominantly French.

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