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A redoubtable West End institution complete with a bowler-hatted doorman and a clubby, wood-panelled dining room filled with piscine prints and cosy nooks, this ‘class establishment’ bears the
Caprice Holdings stamp, with well-heeled regulars, intrepid tourists and foodie celebs revelling in its cossetting atmosphere, silky service and dependable menu. While there have been some reports
of lacklustre cooking (‘big reputation, big let-down’), most wholeheartedly approve of Sheekey’s indulgent fish dishes – think ‘huge, glorious and creamy’ lobster thermidor, Cornish fish stew with
a satisfying dollop of garlic mayo or ‘cosy and buttery’ fish pie, plus the odd on-trend riff such as roast pollack with truffled cauliflower, cockles and sea rosemary. Meat eaters also have their
say and wines are a fine match for the food, while traditional savouries and sweet thrills such as plum and damson pie with clotted cream are further attractions. In short, J Sheekey promises a
must-try mix of ‘old-world glamour and fancy seafood’.
I lay my cards on the table and hold up my hands though not at the same time, obviously. I am not generally a fan of the restaurants in the Caring stable. Don’t get me wrong, they are beautifully run, gorgeously decorated and generally consistent, but there is, to my mind, something about being under the Caring umbrella that brings a little homogeneity and sameness to his restaurants, which I find slightly unexciting.First world problems. I do not expect you to feel sorry for me. I had been invited by my old friends P & S and given that I had not been for nigh on a decade, I felt that a visit was well overdue and indeed I was looking forward to it, not least because they are such spectacularly good company. And they know their food...
More from The Food Judge »
J Sheekey is located in St Martin’s Lane and is primarily a fine dining fish restaurant. We booked this place for a pre-theatre meal and when we called to book we were impressed by the care and attention we received from the gentleman on the phone. He informed us of the time of the play that we were going to see and recommended the latest time for us to thoroughly enjoy our meal without rush...
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