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Square Meal Review of Ilia ?

Following the demise of Papillon, this swanky South Ken site has been recast as Ilia – & there’s a lot to like about its new incarnation. From the faintly art deco dining room with its mirrored pillars & marble-topped bar to the 100-bin wine list, the place shows off its thoroughbred Italian pedigree. Ingredients are put centre-stage, & they duly perform: San Daniele ham is cut on a bright-red Berkel slicer, while a battalion of cheeses whiffs enticingly in the background – don’t miss the five versions of silky burrata. Other dishes on the meandering menu could include ‘scottaditto’ (lamb cutlets served on a slab of aubergine) & homemade pappardelle with wild boar ragù. Cramped, close-packed tables & haphazard, amateurish service took the edge off our visit – but this place has all the makings of a classy neighbourhood Italian.

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