Il Ristorante at The Bulgari Hotel

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Square Meal Review of Il Ristorante at The Bulgari Hotel ?

THIS RESTAURANT WILL CLOSE 23 MARCH

Despite an overload of ostentation appropriate to Britain’s most expensive hotel, the Italian cooking on offer at Il Ristorante could hardly be more down-to-earth. Tick a box – dim-sum style – for bite-sized slivers of blood-red bresaola or sea-bass crudo with tapenade; otherwise, head straight for, say, stuffed vegetables on aubergine caviar followed by breaded veal with lemon and caper butter. Authenticity seems paramount, but it may come with an unexpected flourish: artisan pasta is dressed with ‘tomato variations’ or pesto genovese and served tableside from gleaming silver saucepans, for example. Prices chime with the surroundings rather than the food, and bills can border on the obscene – still, the towering steel staircase, abrasive lighting, surprisingly lively atmosphere and obsequious but friendly service are enough to lure in Knightsbridge’s money-no-object crowd. The wine list focuses on premium Italy, while acknowledging France’s more eye-wateringly priced vintages.

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Essential Details for Il Ristorante at The Bulgari Hotel

  • Cuisine: Italian
  • Area: South Kensington
  • Price: £77.00
  • Wine: £36.00
  • Champagne: £78.00
  • Lunch: ££30 for 3 courses

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