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Customers venture sight unseen from Il Baretto’s dark street-level bar to its subterranean dining room, but needn’t fret about what lies beneath: it’s rarely less than lively. A suitably
low-profile member of restaurateur Arjun Waney’s stable (Zuma, Roka), this is a straightforward trattoria at heart, with added gloss supplied by its location, smart glassed-in wine cellar and
well-heeled customers. A wood-fired oven and robata grill are pressed into service for everything from pizzas topped with burrata and cherry tomatoes to plates of sea bass, bream, tuna and lamb
with understated garnishes, while more involved dishes could include ricotta-stuffed courgette flowers or calf’s liver with braised onions and balsamic. Readers who are otherwise enthusiastic
continue to report that ‘poor’ service is Il Baretto’s downfall, although the beefy Italian wine list should provide at least momentary distraction.
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