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With its slick service, edgy vibe and quirky pieces by the owner’s celeb artist chums adorning the walls, Mark Hix’s flagship continues to entertain Soho socialites, while its louche downstairs bar
remains one of the capital’s best places to impress a date. Food-wise, it’s a less happy picture, with Hix often accused of ‘taking basic British food and charging a fortune for it’ – although it’s
hard to fault the excellent home-smoked salmon with soda bread, seasonal oysters every which way or slow-cooked breast of Launceston lamb with lavender-and-mint jelly. There isn’t much imagination,
originality or finesse here, with readers aiming their guns at the ‘measly’ house burgers, steaks ‘like shoe leather’ and ‘greasy’ tempura-style potato slices. To avoid a bruising bill, go for
Hix’s competitive set menu (£19.50/24.50 for two/three courses).
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