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Four Seasons’ bare brick walls have gone, replaced by a lick of magnolia paint. It’s difficult to see how the owners found time – the nightly queues for Cantonese roast duck continue unabated
despite a slump in quality (the birds are now on the small side & their skins considerably less crisp). Indeed, so great is the popularity of this place that you could spend half an hour in the
street waiting for a shared table. Your main dishes will often arrive before starters are finished & your bill will be presented without asking. With such discourteous service clearly aimed at
getting diners in & out quickly, we can’t help wishing for a return to how things were before a change of ownership in 2004. Fingers crossed things will change soon.
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