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Diners at Four O Nine could be excused for looking smug. It’s not easy finding this first-floor bistro above the Clapham North pub, & entrance involves the rigmarole of ringing a doorbell on
Landor Road, & climbing a steep staircase to the dining room. Regulars make the effort because they know the food is good & the service up to scratch. The menu may not be ground-breaking,
but there’s a pleasing array of modern Brit/Ital food: pigeon breast with cauliflower purée & elderberry jus, perhaps, or rib-eye with bone marrow & anchoïade-dressed salad, although
pescatarians will prefer the pan-fried mackerel with pasta & salsa verde. Puddings (passion-fruit tart with honeycomb powder & chocolate sorbet) tend to be overambitious. Alternatively,
choose ice creams, Neal’s Yard cheeses, or something from the hangover-inducing list of dessert cocktails.
Located on the second floor of the building, the private dining room seats up to 18 guests. With no room hire charge, Four O Nine provides a hassle-free way to celebrate a special event or catch up with friends.
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