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Square Meal Review of Cibo ?

To the west of Holland Park, smart Cibo occupies an odd-looking room with gleaming white walls adorned with rather tacky ‘3D’ cartoons of naked women, spotlights & an assortment of vases that look like auction cast-offs. Nevertheless, Cibo’s chefs know what they are doing & wheel out expertly cooked Italian dishes with a flourish. There’s nothing too revolutionary here, so expect whole fish (perhaps sea bream) baked in wine, herbs & tomatoes or grilled veal cutlets with rosemary. Pastas are classy & mouthwatering –try ravioli filled with pheasant or the lavish lobster spaghetti. For dessert, zabaglione is given an update with figs, while tiramisu is ever-present. The all-Italian wine list is pretty reasonable, considering the area, with house vino priced at £18.50.

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