Overlooking diminutive Chavasse Park, Liverpool’s branch of the UK-wide Chaophraya chain draws an urban clientele who are welcomed into its sparkling interior by chatty Scousers and Thai staff in shimmering silk.
Behind gleaming glass, chefs toil over blazing woks in the steaming kitchen. The menu is presented as a journey down the Chao Phraya River, which flows through Bangkok into the Gulf of Thailand. Fish and seafood, naturally, is a good way to stick to the theme and soft-shell crab and squid tempura makes a fine launching point: crisp batter encasing sweet crab meat, succulent squid and asparagus, boosted by a chilli and lime avocado dip. Follow, perhaps, with prawn red curry, grilled sea bass with chilli and lime dressing or red snapper in tamarind sauce.
Meat dishes are handled just as deftly. Thai green chicken curry arrives packed with tender breast and quartered Thai aubergine, accompanied by steamed coconut rice that exudes a delicate aroma when its banana-leaf wrapping is unfurled. Elsewhere you’ll find crispy pork belly with Thai basil, tamarind duck, weeping tiger sirloin steak and beef jungle curry, all of which can be accompanied by side dishes of steamed noodles, stir-fried veg (asparagus, mushroom, carrot, broccoli and pak choy).
Desserts are less traditional, meandering across the oceans; sticky toffee pudding is given a Thai twist with hints of ginger and lemon, or there’s affogato, chocolate fondant and clementine tart. Something from the international cocktail list might be a better way to finish: the Mexican pudding cocktail arrives topped with cream and chocolate above rich depths of Ron Zacapa, Frangelico and espresso.
A vegan menu offers all of the classics in meat-free, plant-based form, while a children’s menu is a good way to introduce young palates to the likes of chicken satay, pad Thai and chicken and vegetable fried rice.