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Square Meal Review of Bocconcino ?

Peer down from the mezzanine walkway, then descend the spiral staircase for a touch of glitz, but no tablecloths, at Bocconcino – the first London outing from the Moscow-based pizza/pasta chain. Soft, comfy beige seats encourage lingering and the moneyed Mayfair set seem relaxed as they enjoy mounds of salmon tartare or boards of rich cured meats paired with springy, salty focaccia. For mains, we loved the big, authentic flavours of slow-cooked wild boar ragù, but if you’re here for pizza, there’s a decent selection and it’s cooked in a wood-fired oven – try the huge, doughy house special. After that, go for zingy New York cheesecake with passion fruit or the ultra-rich dolce pizza – although, at £16 a go, you might consider sharing this. A couple of frothy Espresso Martinis provide the perfect ending.

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