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Burly bouncers are a reminder that this higgledy-piggledy Soho townhouse is also home to a clubby bar and exclusive private rooms. A recent makeover sees four atmospheric, clean-lined floors done
out in sleek grey tones, with the well-trodden restaurant at street level. The inventive but accessible menu trots through the Far East’s best-loved cuisines, delivering sharp Asian pear salad with
cashews and orange tofu dressing, assorted small plates (crispy squid with wild ginger or sweet Chinese steamed buns filled with tender lamb and chilli, say), signature noodle bowls and an
extra-fiery green chicken curry. Regain your cool with rose of the Orient (cold rose tea, homemade grenadine and lemon juice) or sip one of the ‘fantastic’ cocktails from the Red Bar upstairs. A
bánh mi bar fills this third floor space in the week, serving Vietnamese baguettes during the lunchtime rush. Staff are ‘slick’ and full of smiles, but have a ‘tendency to hover’.
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