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Square Meal Review of Artusi ?

Joining the likes of The Begging Bowl as one of a clique of fashionable finds in Peckham Rye, this chic Italian is wowing locals with proper plates of gutsy, good-value food full of ambition and confidence. Named after Victorian polymath Pellegrino Artusi (best known for The Science of Cooking and the Art of Fine Dining), the minimalist dining room combines copper lightshades and a slate-grey ceiling with a communal table and counter seating by the open kitchen. Food is listed on a blackboard, and there’s much to enjoy – from an elegant ricotta and tomato salad to perky homemade pastas, pork cooked in milk and lemon juice or melt-in-the-mouth onglet with peas and pungent wild garlic salsa. For dessert, Artusi’s orange and polenta cake is arguably one of the best in town. The only dud note is service, which is hands-off at best.

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