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Opened in 1988, this smart north London local offers old-school Italian know-how spiced up with a touch of modern adventure. Whole sea bream is simply grilled with olive oil and herbs, then
expertly filleted (so you don’t have to worry about those pesky little bones) and there’s a creamy, boozy tiramisu among the dessert specials, while bresaola comes with coffee-scented mayonnaise
and seared scallops are served with a teriyaki sauce and oyster mushrooms. Well-to-do couples, chattering friends and grown-up families gather on the terrace overlooking a quiet square, and the
dining room features a wall of fame hung with celeb photos: Bono, Sadie Frost, Madonna and Kate Moss have all dropped by – perhaps to order bottles of Cristal from a wine list also populated with
well-sourced, less starry names. Capable, calm waiters provide decent service. Friday are live jazz nights.
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