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Square Meal Review of Appennino ?

Bright and breezy Appennino offers a modern – if unsubtle – Italian experience, complete with chart music blaring from the speakers. Order a traditional bellini or Campari and orange as an appetite-sharpener, before moving on to the main culinary event. Rotisserie dishes are one of the kitchen’s mainstays: large groups can try the mixed platter to share (£29) with rib-eye steak, chicken, pork and Tuscan sausage – or call a couple of days ahead to order whole suckling pig. Alternatively, try one of the interesting line-up of pizzas (pork belly, spinach and spiced apple, say) or a pasta dish such as pappardelle with wild boar ragù, before finishing with handmade tiramisu or pannacotta. On Monday nights you can BYO (£12 corkage); otherwise, Italy rules on the wine list.

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