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Much-lauded Zucca may be close by, but Antico’s flexible approach, cheery service and laid-back, youthful vibe still guarantee regular full
houses. Perky Nocarella olives and focaccia get things off to a good start, while the menu offers lots of options – from grazing on small plates or loading up with pasta to conventional
three-course blowouts. Top calls have included fritto misto of prawns and squid with a zingy chilli and basil aïoli, pappardelle with lamb ragù (‘a standout’), expertly timed fore-rib of beef
fiorentina and grilled tuna steak with treviso, capers and balsamic reduction. To finish, order a selection of tiramisu, espresso ice cream, blood-orange sorbet and the like – with enough spoons
for sharing. Design-savvy locals may not be impressed by the cheap-looking furniture, but as a lively, warm-hearted neighbourhood eatery, Antico delivers the goods.
Thank God for Gregg Wallace's Kitchen. If it wasn't for the failing, empty echoing temple to celebrity 'chef'dom under the Bermondsey Square Hotel you might be forgiven for thinking that all you needed for restaurant success was an SE1 postcode. Bermondsey Street has, with the aforementioned exception, become a real hub for local foodies in recent years. One can only hope that the minions soon to be besuitedly beetling away in the nearby Shard don't notice, it's busy enough already round here.On a night where I needed to prove my restaurant picking credentials to a discerning guest, the street didn't let me down...
More from the grumbling gourmet »
She says: Situated on Bermondsey St, amongst the cluster of warehouse conversions, hip after work pubs and cocktail bars (The Garrison, Wool Pack, The Hide, Village East) and some our favourite food haunts that we visit on lazy weekends (Zucca, Jose & Pizarro) – we decide to try Antico, one of the newer local eateries in His neighbourhood. We’ve always peered inside on our way to do our occasional Sainsburys’ run in Bermondsey Square – the restaurant usually seems alive, bustling with lots of noise and smells of rustic Italian cuisine – like an Italian nonna would make! We later discover that Antico hosts an ‘Acoustic Night’ every Wednesday in the downstairs cocktail bar and Mojito Thursdays for 4 quid (more reasons to come back and visit!). He decided to make a dinner booking here for His sister who came to London for a two week holiday from Canada. Another excuse to try a new restaurant, but beware of the expanding tummy!...
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