34 Windsor St

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Square Meal Review of 34 Windsor St ?

Dreamed up by Zeffy Thompson and chef Sam Owen, this lively local restaurant has been tricked out in sophisticated but personal style with plush banquettes, pretty flowers, patterned wallpaper and impeccably laid tables. Produce from the owners’ ‘secret’ organic garden provides pickings for the kitchen, and there’s a mischievous streak running through the menu – witness a take on the ‘full English’ (with tea) for dinner or cheeky desserts such as pear jelly with soured ice cream, sherbet and cheesecake crumb. In between, look for the likes of cod baked in burnt onion with wilted kale and onion jus or a duo of lamb with ricotta and rosemary ‘spheres’ and spinach mousse. The home-baked bread with Marmite butter also gets people talking, while lazy afternoon teas and cheeky cocktails provide the icing on the cake.

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