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Square Meal Review of 1701 ?

When the original Bevis Marks Restaurant moved north from its original site, it left a gap in the market. Thankfully, this new eatery, located in the grounds of the London’s oldest synagogue (built in 1701), is primed to deliver a bold, contemporary take on traditional Jewish cuisine. Gefilte fish appears as wild sea-bass mousseline with beetroot, horseradish, ginger and carrot jelly, bowls of restorative ‘Jewish penicillin’ are billed as ‘chicken consommé with tortellini’, and a modernised version of flanken involves hay-smoked short ribs with celeriac purée and pomegranate. To conclude, how about a modish riff on Middle Eastern tishpishti (orange blossom and semolina cake) embellished with carrot sorbet and black olive ‘soil’? You can also start the day with a kibbutz-style Israeli breakfast or filo-pastry bourekas. The international wine list includes some mevushal (Kosher) bottles.

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  1. When the opportunity presented itself to dine at not only the UK’s sole fine dining Jewish restaurant, but one set in the heart of Britain’s oldest synagogue, I happily accepted.

    Restaurant 1701 is modern and bright, at odds with its ancient foundations, and of a cut glass fine ambience. A 7 course tasting menu with accompanying wine flight is offered journeying the Jewish world, and it was with Ukrainian Jewish that my excursion began.

    To start; borscht. Now, we all know borscht, but not like this; piping hot, with a spherified ball of tart balsamic, cutting through iron rich beetroot and followed with a fiery burst of horseradish. It’s probably the first time I’ve enjoyed borscht. ‘Sabich’, a marriage of my twin favourites of aubergine and Japanese, I was always going to love...
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