Touristy James Street near Selfridges is the unlikely setting for the latest destination addition to Jason Atherton’s portfolio, but will the hungry throngs warm to this Social Spanish? We ventured in this weekend to find out.
Like everything else that the supremely talented Atherton (pictured, bottom) has turned his hand to, he's pulled off Social Wine & Tapas with aplomb. Heading things up is the group’s executive sommelier Laure Patry (below) and, as the restaurant’s name suggests, wine shares top billing: as well as a shop and two tasting areas on site, many of the staff are sommeliers and can advise on everything from what to take home for supper to purchasing a Coravin wine system. But an open kitchen and eating counter at street level shows that the emphasis is just as much on food, and there’s more seating in the basement downstairs. Our standouts were four wonderfully salty ham croquettes; slow-cooked egg that dripped its yolk over creamed potato and ox cheek – gloriously sloppy comfort; and the fresh kick of salt-baked beetroot with ricotta, red wine and pine-nut dressing. But from the first bite of pan con tomate to the last lick of roast milk soft-serve ice cream, there wasn’t one duff dish, and with much of the menu priced around £7 per plate (order four per head), it’s fairly priced for the quality. To drink, wine flights and a lengthy by-the-glass selection offer an easy way in to a list that seeks out interest and originality from all around the world. Polished woods, dark leathers and metallic finishes make for a rather butch setting, but engaging staff underscore the overall mood of affordable approachability. Alas, with no bookings, queuing is inevitable unless you turn up off peak. But it will be well worth the wait.
Read more about what to expect from Social Wine & Tapas here.
In Autumn 2014, we awarded Atherton's City Social with our BMW Square Meal Best New Restaurant accolade – read all about it here.
This article was published 15 June 2015