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Review of the restaurant reviews
(menu)
Review of the reviews: December 2011
Christmas is coming – but which restaurants were a gift to the UK’s reviewers and which deserve a lump of coal? The Observer’s Jay Rayner wasn’t impressed with the new-look Rib Room, while the Evening Standard’s Fay Maschler criticised Russell Norman for dropping the ball with the little details at Mishkin’s. The 10 Cases fared better during a visit from Metro’s Marina O’Loughlin, who didn’t want to leave.
Review of the reviews: October 2011
Big-name chefs have been busy with major London launches over the past couple of months. Gordon Ramsay’s juggernaut Bread Street Kitchen (pictured) garnered praise from The Independent’s Tracey MacLeod for its groovy vibe, while Casa Batavia drew scorn from The Times’ Giles Coren – and Square Meal – for its budget choice of petits fours. Meanwhile, Fay Maschler’s experience at Cut was sizzling, even if her steak wasn’t.
Review of the reviews: July 2011
July was a mainly positive month for London’s restaurant critics. Time Out’s Guy Dimond swooned over City slicker Chiswell Street Dining Rooms, the Evening Standard’s David Sexton found Pizza East’s second establishment worth the long trek down Portobello Road, and The Independent on Sunday’s Lisa Markwell enjoyed Roganic despite the hefty bill. Only Joe’s (pictured) and Rocksalt received ropier reports.
Review of the reviews: June 2011
This month has been a stressful one for some of London’s critics: Time Out’s head honcho couldn’t relax at rammed tapas bar José (pictured), while The Sunday Times’ resident reviewer stressed over the sheer choice at Pollen Street Social. The Observer’s Jay Rayner fared better at St John Hotel with an erotic custard tart, while Spuntino proved delicious for Zoe Williams of The Sunday Telegraph.
Review of the reviews: May 2011
The last couple of months have seen a couple of big-ticket openings as well as local launches. Metro’s Marina O’Loughlin reached nirvana by way of sherry bar Capote y Toros (pictured), while Nick Curtis from The Evening Standard considered sharing plates with a wry eye at Riding House Café. In other news, The Independent’s John Walsh was underwhelmed by Bennett Oyster Bar, and The Observer’s Jay Rayner expected more bang for his buck at The Savoy Grill.
Review of the UK restaurant reviews
More restaurant critics are beginning to break free of the confines of the M25, and generally, they like what they find. John Lanchester, writing in The Guardian, finds an ‘insanely great gastropub’ in The Sportsman, while the scallops at The Harrow at Little Bedwyn (pictured) get The Independent’s John Walsh all emotional. However, The Sunday Times' London-loving AA Gill leaves Norfolk’s Rose & Crown predictably underwhelmed.
Review of the reviews: March 2011
London’s food critics have been chasing each other around the capital’s restaurants again. This month, Time Out’s Guy Dimond echoes our opinion on the Fox & Grapes’ dessert, while The Observer’s Jay Rayner ponders the flimsy puddings at Chabrot, after raving about the rest of the menu. Meanwhile, Tracey MacLeod, in The Independent on Sunday, reveals to Ottolenghi’s fans that Nopi (pictured) is no ‘second coming’.
Review of the reviews: February 2011
Were other critics’ opinions on recent London restaurant openings in sync with the Square Meal taste barometer? This month, The Times’ Giles Coren finds one dessert at Dinner ‘soaked in angel's spit and spiked with the sugar of unicorn's horn’, Metro’s Marina O’Loughlin shrugs her shoulders at Brawn (pictured), Time Out rates Opera Tavern, AA Gill admonishes Les Deux Salons in The Sunday Times, and The Observer’s Jay Rayner decrees North Road as close as one can get to Noma in the UK.