The end of the year has got us in a reflective mood. It’s been a crazy 12 months in the restaurant world and we’ve certainly had our work cut out reviewing all the new openings (it’s a tough life, eh?). But which newbies were our personal favourites? After much umming and ahhing, each of the Square Meal team have named their top pick...
Ben McCormack, editor
Hoppers, Soho
“The sort of place you tell all your friends about, and can't wait to take them to – just so you have another excuse to go back. They now send a text when your table is ready, so no more queuing.”
Inspired by the roadside shacks of southern India and Sri Lanka, Hoppers is a small, informal venue furnished in 50 shades of brown, with rattan chairs, tightly packed tables and patterned tiling. The value is exceptional, with karis (curries) paired with crisp, sticky dosas costing around £10: ideal for a light lunch. Main courses are dosas and the namesake hopper (a bowl-shaped pancake made from coconut-milk batter and fermented rice).
India Dowley, news and online editor
Oldroyd, Islington
“Small plates and a homely feel make this perfect for weekday dining. I couldn’t be more pleased that this is my new local.”
Tom Oldroyd’s first solo venture after leaving Polpo is tiny and easily missed on chain-heavy Upper Street. But its diminutive size produces a convivial buzz – as does the open-plan layout and the draw of seasonal, modern European sharing plates. The food fills the minute tables: golden, crunchy smoked pork belly and pea croquetas are a must, while crab tagliarini made us want to lick the plate.
Julie Sheppard, contributing editor
Oklava, Old Street
“For bringing a totally new twist to Turkish cuisine.”
The menu shows off Selin Kiazim’s flair for fusion cooking (she has worked with Peter Gordon at The Providores) as well as honouring her Turkish-Cypriot roots. Friendly staff explain traditional ingredients such as çemen (a fenugreek paste), recommending favourite dishes and wines from the all-Turkish list. We began with moist courgette, feta and mint fritters, but the star was chilli-garlic chicken, its crisp coating flavoured with za’atar spice mix.
Laura Foster, assistant editor
Ellory, Hackney
“A great new addition to the burgeoning foodie scene around Broadway Market. I’m still dreaming about that pear sorbet, feta cheese and sage oil dessert…”
The simple, laid-back ethos of the food and interior translates to the friendly, efficient service. Visitors can choose between a short à la carte or a very reasonably priced five-course set menu for £38. Dishes might include thin, pearly slivers of raw scallop layered over crunchy slices of chestnut and Jerusalem artichoke or a single handsome calçot onion, its deep, leek-like flavours matched with splodges of creamy goats’ curd, salty trout roe and sharp pickled capers.
Neil Simpson, deputy news and online editor
Shackfuyu, Soho
“Hands down, this kind of fun food is what Soho is all about.”
Bone Daddies’ successful year-long pop-up has now found a permanent home, with a refurbishment including a new upstairs bar and private dining in the basement. Expect the same high-energy atmosphere and low-fuss, small plates inspired by current Japanese food trends. Housed in a former Italian restaurant, Shackfuyu makes use of the former pizza oven, which churns out mentaiko (fish roe), mac ‘n’ cheese and USDA beef picanha (a rump cut).
Rosie Morris, editorial assistant
Burnt Truffle, Merseyside
“A really relaxed, enjoyable dining experience. The best pork crackling I’ve ever had (and I’ve had a lot).”
From the team behind Chester’s acclaimed Sticky Walnut, Burnt Truffle has a clean, classic interior that lets modern, seasonal British food do the talking. We were welcomed with pillowy soft sourdough that we greedily consumed with delicious truffle and walnut butter, but the highlight was undoubtedly pork belly – plump, succulent and crowned with wafer-thin crackling – matched perfectly with buttery polenta, grilled chicory and a rich red-wine sauce.
This article was published 23 December 2015