You shall have a fishy on a little dishy (and then some) at recently opened Mayfair bistro Bouillabaisse, where we relished one of the most enjoyable seafood meals we’ve had in a long time…
This cheery seafood restaurant looks set to banish bad memories from the site’s previous existence as gloomy Bo London. Former Nobu director Kurt Zdesar (the man behind the Ping Pong chain and Soho’s Peruvian-Japanese joint, Chotto Matte) has created a breezy seaside shack-cum-brasserie out of the narrow premises. The thrown-together look is emphasised by distressed wood and seagrass – although this being Mayfair, the vibe is more Hamptons than Hastings, right down to the globe lights, curvy leather banquettes and a chef’s table surrounded by tanks of luxey lobster.
On our visit, friendly chef Jordan Sclare was advising diners on what was best from a menu that touts a daily catch of fishy classics, from vongole and Dover sole to seafood pie and the signature bouillabaisse. We were very impressed: this was one of the most enjoyable seafood meals we’ve had in a long time. Hebridean langoustine and wild sea bass carpaccio was fresh and zappy, even if the addition of basil, piquillo peppers and rocket made it look like raw pizza. Snow-crab cakes with garlic and herb salsa were springy and perfectly seasoned. An unimpeachable Isle of Skye whole lobster showed that British is always best when it comes to crustaceans. And even better was a whole sea bass, often so dull but here transformed in the wood oven into something entrancingly smoky, with all its juiciness sealed within the crisp skin.
There’s the odd wrong note: otherwise excellent sautéed spinach served in an unappealing metal dish; and a pretentious mission statement on the menu (‘food inspired by conversations with fishing communities around the globe’). But this welcoming restaurant gets most things right, with a breakfast menu and wines selected from coastal regions being further well thought-out touches.
This article was published August 2015