30 July 2014

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Wines for Autumn: Riesling


There are plenty of rewarding tastes to try as the nights draw in. Expert taster Simon Woods offers his seasonal picks

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Chardonnay is the white grape most people associate with Australia, but there are many who would argue that Riesling is its most successful variety. There’s now a welcome move, begun by Yalumba with its Pewsey Vale Contours Riesling, to release older wines to show just how well they can age.


Jacob’s Creek Steingarten Riesling 2002 (£17.99, Selfridges; 2007 £14.99, selected Sainsbury’s and Tesco), formerly under the Orlando label, has been an Australian classic for years. Now marketed as Jacob’s Creek, the wine is as good as ever. From the higher, cooler bits of the Barossa in South Australia, it shows wonderful citrus and mineral notes (think river pebbles), but it’s acquired a toasty richness. Classy fare, and still with bags of life ahead of it.

Peter Lehmann Wigan Riesling 2003 (£11.95, Noel Young Wines, Australian Wines Online) may not ring many bells in the UK – it’s named after Australian winemaker Andrew Wigan – but the wine, another Barossa, deserves appreciation. It has a touch more honeyed sweetness than the Steingarten, but there’s the same citrus and buttered toast complexity, and, once again, the promise of pleasures to come.

Editorial feature from Square Meal Lifestyle Magazine Autumn 2009

« Wine - Styles & regions made simple