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Wines for Autumn: Dry Oloroso Sherry
(menu)There are plenty of rewarding tastes to try as the nights draw in. Expert taster Simon Woods offers his seasonal picks
Dry Oloroso Sherry
Sherry has thankfully passed beyond the fuddy-duddy connotations of the past, but it has still to acquire a positive image to propel it back to the position it
deserves – one of the world’s great wines. This is in some senses a tragedy, but it does mean there are some serious bargains to be had for wine lovers. And while it’s often advisable to tread
carefully among supermarket own-labels, where sherry is concerned standards are generally high, especially if you move up from the base level.
TWO TO TRY:
Waitrose Solera Jerezana (£7.99, Waitrose) is a gentle, just-off-dry wine from Lustau, one of the top names in sherry. It is fleshy and intense with a soft raisin and walnut tang – try it with rich fruitcake or hard cheese. Perfect Bonfire Night sipping, too.
Tesco 12-year-old Oloroso Sherry (£6.99/half litre, selected Tesco) is a richer yet drier style from another fine producer, Hidalgo. It offers intense nut, dried fruit and iodine notes, and a burnt sugar and raisin finish. Some may find it on the severe side, but for those who love aged dry sherry, this is a classic at a bargain price.