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It must be the
first question that members of Square Meal’s editorial team get asked by almost every new person we meet: ‘where have you eaten recently that you really rate?’ followed by ‘where’s a good new place
to go?’ To give you a flavour of which restaurants we think stood the test of time in 2011, and to tip you off about the red-hot tickets for 2012, Square Meal’s team members reveal their best meals
of last year, and the new openings they’re most looking forward to visiting. Whet your appetite here…
Ben McCormack, editor
My best single meal of 2011 was at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal (pictured, above right). This wasn’t just a case of being wowed by all the hype: from the visual joke of the meat fruit giving way to the luscious chicken-liver parfait within, via the succulence of the pork chop to the sheer enjoyment of the tipsy cake, this was a meal that combined technical accomplishment with revelatory flavours. I also loved my dinner at The Young Turks at The Ten Bells: it’s rare to eat such forward-thinking food in such a fun setting, so go before this pop-up ends in spring.
I haven’t had the patience to endure the queues at Meatliquor, but it’s currently top of my list of must-visits to try the deep-fried pickle: anything tastes better if you stick it in a deep-fat fryer. Otherwise, dinner at Le Gavroche, Corrigan’s Mayfair, Sumosan or Hakkasan is always something I’d anticipate with deep pleasure.
Julie Sheppard, associate editor
Now in its sixth year after opening, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon continues to delight and my meal there in 2011 was no exception. What makes it so special is not just the high standard of creative cooking and smooth-as-silk service, but the opportunity to experience culinary theatre as you watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen of the atmospheric atelier. Even better, the small-plates menu offers ample excuses to taste a whole range of dishes – from the clever 'caviar' to a textured melange of scallops, jamón ibérico, mushrooms, crunchy hazelnuts and Parmesan or indulgently rich quail breast stuffed with foie gras – with plenty of playful touches to keep even the most demanding gastronome satisfied.
Although I'm partial to a Pisco sour, I haven't had a chance to sample much Peruvian cuisine, so I've got Lima and Ceviche on my 'must-visit' list for 2012, as it's always good to try something new. A more tried-and-tested option will be Vivek Singh's new Soho outpost, as I'm a big fan of his creative Indian cooking at The Cinnamon Club.
Stuart Peskett, sub-editor
My favourite meal of 2011 was at Cay Tre in Old Street. As a Vietnamese food novice, I was keen to try a cuisine which so many Londoners have already ‘got’, and I wasn’t disappointed. Every dish – and we got through several – was vibrant and bursting with freshness: lotus-stem salad, summer rolls, pho, all delicious. The service (and the thick, thick coffee) was top-notch, too.
This
year, I’m determined to beat the queues and try the brisket and pulled pork at Pitt Cue Co (pictured, right).
It’s great that Londoners now have a decent range of barbecue joints after having to put up with dire Tex-Mex chains year after year. Oh, and if Hawksmoor are planning to expand further, then count
me in for a meal there.
Nicky Evans, news and online editor
It’s difficult to choose a ‘best’ meal from so many great ones. However, a few stand out as exceptional: Chabrot Bistrot d’Amis, with its charming atmosphere and luxuriant French dishes, has tempted me back time and again since I first reviewed it. My meal at newcomer Medlar made me exceedingly jealous of the people who can count the restaurant as their local. And, having just lost my Fat Duck virginity, I can’t leave it off the list – my meal there was fun, eye-opening, utterly delicious – and worth every penny.
As for 2012, such is the hype surrounding Dabbous that I’m keen to join the scrum for tables – so far, it’s received an almost unanimous thumbs-up. This week I shall finally get round to eating at both Burger and Lobster and the relaunched Tom Aikens, which have been on my hit list for a while and are both worth braving the cold for! And whatever Russell Norman’s sixth ‘Old-World-meets-New-World’ small-plates restaurant turns out to be, I’m there – it’s always interesting to see each twist on the concept.
Ami Kang, assistant online editor
My favourite meals of the year would have to be reluctantly narrowed down to two. Yotam Ottolenghi’s Nopi would be my
top choice. I’ve always had a soft spot for his recipes which I think are always intuitive and unique, and those qualities are showcased here. The fusion menu gracefully combines Middle Eastern,
Medite
rranean and even Asian influences – each dish carefully considered, fresh and elegant. My second choice would be Meatliquor, a high-octane package inspired by America’s deep south. Think: dark, loud and piles of American cheese. It’s
incredibly fun and cheap as chips, too.
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This year I’m most looking forward to trying Ceviche (pictured,
right). I think they’ve just recently got the keys to their new Soho home, which is exciting. I think it’ll be a huge hit over the summer – how refreshing is the thought of tucking into fish
cold-cooked in lime juice and Peruvian chilli while sipping on Pisco sours when it’s lovely and warm outside?