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Seaside luxury, northern escapism, southern eccentricity, designer glamour… Sophie Dening covers all the bases with her choice of autumn getaways
Down by the cove in Portloe, a working fishing village on the Roseland Peninsula on the south Cornish coast, the Lugger has just the right degree of luxury for a family-friendly seaside hotel. Its 22 rooms are decorated in shades of white and cool beige; bathrooms have deluge showers and deep baths; and the superb Hypnos beds are likely to beat whatever you sleep on at home. While it doesn’t have quite as much character as its location suggests, it does have lots of places to relax, including a fire-warmed library and lounge, and a decent restaurant and bar, where you can eat locally caught fish and seafood washed down with a bottle of Veuve Clicquot or Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet. While you’re in the area, don’t miss wonderful Cornish pubs the Roseland Inn at Philleigh and the King’s Head at Ruan Lanihorne.
Doubles £130-£205 B&B. Portloe, Truro, Cornwall, TR2 5RD; 01872 501322; luggerhotel.co.uk
This scarlet-painted, self-catering one-off is pure escapism in a modest, English way. It has a fully equipped galley kitchen, a 19ft sitting room, a double room with en-suite bathroom, a twin-bedded room and a bunk room that sleeps two children. Cloughton Station was all go in its day, with a level crossing and cattle dock; now, it’s a small B&B, with rooms in the station house and the old goods shed, and a tearoom, open Saturday to Wednesday year-round for butties, toasties and home-made food. Oscar, a 1962 Derby-built Mk 1 carriage, has its own garden and is not overlooked.
Sleeps six, £275 (Fri-Sun) with Ingrid Flute’s Yorkshire Holiday Cottages; 01947 600700; yorkshireholidaycottages.co.uk. Station Lane, Cloughton, North Yorkshire, YO13 0AD;
01723 870896; cloughtonstation.co.uk
There’s eccentricity in the air in Rye, from the benign bikers who day-trip here, to its literary associations and smuggling past. Jeake’s House is a quaint historic property with 11 rooms, four of which are four-poster suites named after former residents; among them Conrad Aiken, who bought the house in 1924, and Malcolm Lowry. You get a lot of charm for your money: steep staircases, antique beds and views over Rye or Romney Marsh. There’s a parlour with a Broadwood piano, a fireplace (always blazing in winter) and board games, plus a separate honesty bar. Breakfast is terrific: devilled kidneys, boiled egg and soldiers or smoked wild salmon with free-range eggs.
Suites from about £125 B&B. Mermaid Street, Rye, East Sussex, TN31 7ET; 01797 222828; jeakeshouse.com
Contemporary and glamorous, designed top to bottom by fashion/textiles doyenne Rosita Missoni, this 136-room hotel and spa on the Royal Mile makes a suitably chic springboard for an extravagant
Christmas shopping trip. There’s Missoni everything – bed sheets, towels, robes, cushions and tableware – and also design pieces by Marcel Wanders, Eero Saarinen and Arne Jacobsen. Among the seven
suites, the 590sq ft Rosa Suite on the top floor has a walk-in shower, a second bathroom and far-reaching views;
the Missoni Suite is similar in style, with 540sq ft of space and a bathtub. The hotel restaurant, Cucina, which specialises in classic Italian food in seasonal menus, is popular in its own right, and the Missoni bar serves Bellinis and bombolini doughnuts.
Doubles from £195 B&B; suites from £500 B&B. 1 George IV Bridge, Edinburgh, EH1 1AD; 0131 220 6666; hotelmissoni.com