The Savoy Grill reopens – Stuart Gillies interview

How will the relaunched Savoy Grill compare to its former guise under Marcus Wareing, before the hotel’s refurbishment?
It’ll be so different. That wasn’t my thing, really, what Marcus did. I don’t want a temple of gastronomy; I want a big, buzzy room with great food and great service. It’s more like a big, elegant brasserie now – you can pop in for one course, a glass of wine then go. I’m not scared of the term 'brasserie' because I think they can be done superbly.

The hotel relaunched on 10 October. Why the delay reopening the Grill?
The delay with the hotel’s refurbishment was frustrating at times – we were ready [with the concept] 18 months ago. But when we finally got the date for the hotel opening – the 10^th of the 10^th – there simply wasn’t enough time for us to get the contractors in to get the room sorted.

Certain elements that the Grill is set to include – table service and trolleys – are few and far between now in the capital. Is there still a place for them in the competitive London market?
There are certain rooms in London that are crying out for the old-school revival, and this is one. We’ve got a beautiful interior here styled on the 1920s and 1930s, and it’s a perfect fit.  Table service is something hotels can do because they have the space. It died out a bit because it got tired; chefs found it unexciting and customers found it boring. But the theatre of it can be great – it’s something they do really well in Paris. We’re keeping it short and snappy – customers don’t want to see a waiter carve a whole chicken, they want to watch for a minute, tops, then get back to their conversation.

It’s been a tough year for Gordon Ramsay Holdings – especially with the coverage afforded to it in the press – has it been easy to get your head down and work on the Grill’s relaunch?
There’s always publicity in a company like this. I’ve known Gordon for 20 years and he has always done his thing and I’ve done mine. Our styles gel really well and he’s given me a job to do here at the Grill. Whatever is going on outside the restaurant’s door, I couldn’t care less about. I’ve got my head down here and the blinkers on and it doesn’t matter what’s in the press – I owe it to the company and to the magnificent room we have here to get this restaurant just right.

The Savoy Grill, The Savoy, Strand, London, WC2R 0EU; 020 7592 1600. For a full review, click here.