20 August 2014

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Focus on... restaurants in West Dorset


weymouth and chesil beach dorset 2012 - West_Dorset2.jpgThere’s plenty of swanky dining in West Dorset if you really want it, but to get under the skin of the region, it pays to forego lily-gilding and head for the kind of unpretentious, easy-going eateries that reflect the area’s rural footings.

From Weymouth to Lyme Regis, the mammoth Jurassic Coast and the rolling hills of Thomas Hardy’s Wessex are home to ramshackle beach cafés and hidden farmhouses, quirky street food hangouts and time-honoured, in-the-know institutions.

West Dorset’s restaurants also make admirable use of locally sourced produce gleaned from acres of verdant countryside and miles of unspoilt coastline. Elsewhere, the region’s mild, temperate climate makes it hard to beat for the basics.

The Acorn Inn, Evershot

An easy-going alternative to the five-star allure of its well-to-do neighbour, Summer Lodge, the Acorn Inn (aka The Sow & Acorn in Hardy’s Tess of the D’Urbervilles) booms cosy, country charm from every nook and cranny. But don’t let the chintz fool you – the kitchen here means business.

The Bull Hotel, Bridport

This refurbished, 17th-century coaching inn was the figurehead for a new era in West Dorset dining when it opened in 2006, and it’s still a reliable option for relaxed suppers in boutique surroundings. The all-day, brasserie-style menu is also good for simple lunches and meaty treats such as home-reared lamb.

The Crab House Café, Portland

A little slice of laid-back lovin’ on the otherwise bleak shores of Portland, the Crab House Café brings some typically tropical vibes to the region. Sit under pink straw umbrellas and graze on stir-fried crab with ginger, chilli and garlic while the sea laps at your feet.

Garden Café at Downhouse Farm, Eype

If you can find it underneath all the greenery, this pretty garden café has lashings of Enid Blyton charm, including hefty cream teas, a peanut butter-led menu for the little ones, and an attractive BYO policy in the evening.

Fish & Fritz, Weymouth

If you like your fish and chips served in a vinegar-soaked bag with an unnecessarily small wooden fork, this is the place for you. In the heart of Weymouth’s kiss-me-quick backstreets, F&F is unashamedly traditional, but without a whiff of stale fat or lifeless batter.

The Hive Beach Café, Burton Bradstock

There isn’t a greasy spoon in sight at this perennially popular beach café on prime National Trust land – just plenty of fresh seafood, homemade cakes and – thanks to some beefy awnings and industrial-strength patio heaters – a great year-round location.

Hix Oyster & Fish House - front_table_view.jpgHix Oyster & Fish House, Lyme Regis (pictured, left)

The prices are more Chelsea than South Coast, but there’s no denying that Dorset’s prodigal son Mark Hix knows his onions – as well as his seafood. Perched high above Lyme Regis, with views of the iconic Cobb harbour, this is one of the loveliest locations in the region – complete with an all-new terrace for summer evenings.

Jalopy Pizza, Bridport

Dorset has gone bonkers for posh pizza, and leading the Jurassic Coast charge is Jalopy – a vintage Peugeot J7 van complete with a wood-fired oven, transported from the depths of southern France to the market streets of Bridport and beyond. A runner-up in the British Street Food Awards, Jalopy is now a must-visit for local devotees.

The Riverside Restaurant, West Bay

An original among West Dorset restaurants, the Riverside put fine fish suppers on the menu in the region long before local boy-turned-celeb restaurateur Mark Hix rolled his first pollock fish finger. Floating like a palace above the river Brit as it joins the sea, this place is forever busy.

The Wild Garlic, Beaminster

MasterChef winner Mat Follas opens up his bag of foraged delights at this smartly rustic restaurant overlooking the square in elegantly heeled Beaminster. His food is earthy and man-sized – no wonder Wild Garlic hums with a steady trickle of TV fans and curious locals.

Find top bars and pubs in West Dorset.

This feature was published in July 2012.

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