Key tasting terms Bitter, hoppy, pepper, grassy, spicy, fruity, nutty

If it were a wine it would be From a grassy Sauvignon at the low-end of the scale to tannic Cabernet Sauvignon at the top.

And it’s what, exactly? Bitter is the quintessential English style of ale. The style was an evolution of pale ale, with a darker, bronze colour which could be achieved from the end of the 19th century with the advent of darker, crystal malts. Bitters emerged as brewers sought to produce beers that could be served after just a few days of being stored.

The bitterness comes from hops, with cask product frequently having whole hops added to the barrel before being dispatched from the brewery to give a hoppy aroma – a process known as
dry hopping.

These days, the term pale ale tends to be reserved for the bottled versions of premium ales, and anything above 4% abv tends to be branded as ‘best bitter’.

Just as in wine-producing countries there’s a natural link between Britain’s national drink and its cuisine, and the rich fruitiness of a good bitter can cope with the hearty meatiness of casseroles, steaks and red-meat pies.

Why not try …

Timothy Taylor’s Landlord 4.1% abv, £1.69/50cl and draught, Branded Drinks Partnership, 0870 066 0947

Without question one of the world’s great beers. It’s sold as a pale ale and is a lesson in how that description shouldn’t be interpreted as meaning insipid.

It has a light, golden hue, grassy Sauvignon-like aroma, good floral hops and citrus fruit. The hoppiness isn’t over-bitter and it has a freshness that means it will drink just as easily with an al fresco summer salad as it will
with a full-on roast dinner. Wouldn’t seem out of place with the classic Sauvignon match, the asparagus starter.

Key tasting terms Sweet, raisins, orange citrus, toffee, liqourice

If it were a wine it would be A very fine, sweet oloroso, port or madeira.

And they’re what, exactly? These have a relatively low bitterness level, and a blend of dark and pale malts to produce a full, sweet, dark and rich beer. Old ales come closer than anything in the beer world to fine wines because they are suited to ageing, and some, such as Gale’s Prize Old Ale, carry a vintage date on their labels, and even attract collectors. Many take on the character of port or sweet sherry and their culinary home is with pudding or cheese.

Why not try …

Thomas Hardy’s Ale 11.7% abv, £3.79/24cl, O’Hanlon’s, 01404 822412

Yet another world great that faced oblivion until rescued by Devon-based independent brewer O’Hanlon’s. It’s made as a numbered limited edition each year and supplies are much prized by specialist beer bars. Ruby-coloured, malty, with a fruity date and raisin nose, chocolate orange notes, and a raisiny, sweet-sherry like finish, this would complement a rich, sugary pudding such as treacle tart or could perform a quince-jelly contrast role alongside a cheese plate.

Innis & Gunn Oak-Aged Beer 6.6% abv, £1.49/33cl, Innis & Gunn, 0131 337 4420

Aged for 30 days in old whisky barrels followed by 47 days in a marrying tun, this new kid on the block defies categorisation and proves that giving a beer a bit of age before release doesn’t necessarily mean heavy, sticky and dark.

It’s got a honey golden hue, and beneath the oak is a beer with a malty-sweet Scottish style. The oak lends it subtle vanilla, honey and citrus notes which would make it perfect for lighter meats like duck or pork served with fruity sauces, or even desserts like crème brûlée.

Key tasting terms Hoppy, spicy, bitter, aromatic

If it were a wine it would be An aromatic Gewürztraminer or maybe a Riesling.

And it’s what, exactly? India Pale Ale (IPA) is a hoppier version of pale ale, originally made for England’s Empire outposts. While pale ale (and later bitter) were made for the domestic market, IPAs had more hops which gave them extra bitterness and aroma, but also, more importantly, gave extra stability for the lengthy journey to far-off lands.

The style has undergone something of a revival in recent times, though some of the more mainstream brands on the market are mere shadows of the true IPA style. A real IPA should have an intense hoppy bitterness, big floral aromas and complex flavours that can take in a spectrum of wood-smoke, spices, marmalade oranges and treacle toffee.

Some small American brewers have taken this to extremes with super-hopped beers that have bitterness levels that are unnecessarily challenging, but some of the more modest ones such as Goose Island IPA are among the finest examples of the style to be found anywhere.

A good IPA’s body, smokiness and balance between bitter and sweetness make it a potential solution to the thorny old problem of what to serve with cheese. A good IPA should also cut through smoky fish or continental spicy sausages, though the potentially ruinous effect the beer can have on the palate probably means it’s best served late in a meal.

IPA’s also a good complement for hot dishes, its floral notes hacking through the spices in the same way as a good Riesling. Curries are the obvious choice, but how about Deuchars IPA from Edinburgh with haggis as a more natural fit for when Burns’ Night comes around?

Why not try …

Worthington White Shield 5.6% abv, £2.09/50cl, Coors, 01283 511000

Another world great. Brewed at the Coors-owned microbrewery at its museum in Burton-on-Trent, and enjoying a new lease of life after almost disappearing from view a decade ago. Fabulously complex, it’s at once fruity, rich, nutty and full-bodied, with a hoppy bitterness that will hang around long after the mature cheese or venison you serve it with.

This beer needs flavoursome food to stand up to it, but with these or a rich, meaty stew, they’ll bring the best out of each other.

This category is a modern creation that’s evolved as brewers have sought to produce lighter and more accessible beers to entice non-ale drinkers into their world. It’s met with the approval of pressure group CAMRA, the Campaign for Real Ale, because of its apparent ability to get younger people and women drinking what it sees as proper beer.

Having said that, it’s arguable whether it’s really a style in its own right at all since there aren’t really any key, common flavour characteristics other than that they’re easier to drink, with traits borrowed from a variety of other beer styles – both lagers and ales.

There are, though, some very fine beers in the panopoly of ales that brewers are marketing under the golden ales umbrella.

Why not try …

Golden Champion 5% abv, £1.80/50cl, Hall & Woodhouse, 01258 452141

Fresh and zingy with an elderflower nose and soft fruit flavours of grapefruit citrus and pineapple. A refreshing alternative to lager and the subtle citrus makes it a player alongside salads, chicken or fish.