Going strong since 2004, this welcoming neighbourhood restaurant is a reliable spot for full-flavoured, internationally inspired food. Chef Martin Dobson trained at Le Gavroche in Mayfair, & a classic French influence is evident in dishes such as chicken liver parfait with Melba toast & plum chutney or pan-fried fillet of sea bass with a fennel, pea & cream sauce. Elsewhere, loin of venison is served with celeriac purée & juniper sauce, while suprême of chicken comes with honey & black pepper glaze, smoked bacon & red wine sauce. The excellent-value bistro menu also adds flavours from further afield (lamb tagine, for example), while Brit staples such as shepherd’s pie or local faggots in onion gravy with mushy peas might crop up at lunchtime. To finish, maybe lemon cheesecake on a ginger-biscuit base.