The Harwood Arms

The Harwood Arms has been London’s only Michelin-starred pub for nearly a decade, somehow remaining both a local watering hole and high-end dining destination. It’s an impressive balancing act, one that has been made possible by chefs like Stephen Williams, Sally Abé and now, Jake Leach.

Upon entering, one is greeted by all the signs of a great pub: a laid-back atmosphere, well-stocked bar and cosy interiors. We nab a table in the corner and are soon enjoying the famous venison Scotch egg, slathered with old-school Oxford sauce.

This pub grub is soon replaced by delicate, complex plates, like a brilliantly fresh sea bream tartare laced with capers and yolk. A mackerel, potato and parsley number, meanwhile, is well-balanced, albeit well-trodden ground. To drink, the staff expertly select an Austrian white for us, one that offers a twang of sweetness to counterbalance the salinity of the fish.

A gastropub is only as good as its mains, and the Sladesdown duck for two perfectly encapsulates The Harwood’s unfussy, yet elevated style. The breast is blushing pink and flawlessly tender, resting on a bed of creamy oats and mushrooms, while the wing, heart and liver have been skewered and grilled, each delicious in its own way. One slip-up - a firm, undercooked slice of turnip - is soon forgotten thanks to gloriously crisp roast baby potatoes, doused in red wine jus. With a velvety pinot noir in hand, the thought of ever leaving seems less and less inviting.

Our meal finishes with an unexpected flourish. Trifle, typically an outdated jumble of cold sponge and sherry, here is an utter revelation. Layers of yoghurt ice cream, champagne jelly, blackcurrant granita and gingerbread crumb come together wonderfully, forming a riveting chorus that leaves us spellbound.

In an ordinary pub, £65 for three courses might feel steep. But then again, nothing about The Harwood Arms is ordinary.

Built in 1866 as a ‘beer house’, The Harwood Arms has been a pack leader on London’s gastropub scene for many a year, thrilling Chelsea locals and others with its stellar ingredients-led food and handsome gentrified interiors (a full-length bar, bare-boarded floors, mismatched furniture, monochrome photos on green-panelled walls). It also benefits from having some starry backers including Brett Graham (of The Ledbury) and TV chef/food-hunter Mike Robinson (of The Pot Kiln, Frilsham).

The kitchen specialises in wholeheartedly seasonal British fare – including veg, soft fruit and herbs from the pub’s rooftop garden, plus foraged pickings and bags of furred and feathered game (roast Yorkshire grouse with creamed root vegetables, stuffed cabbage and elderberries, for example).

Other highlights from the daily fixed-price menu might range from whipped chicken livers with onion jam and thyme ‘hobnobs’ or salt-baked beetroot with pickled cherries, hazelnuts and duck ham to poached Cornish cod with sweetcorn, cockles and lemon thyme or slow-cooked shoulder of Herdwick lamb with creamed courgettes and basil. Also, take a peek at calendar-tuned desserts such as strawberry and camomile trifle or blackcurrant jam doughnuts with citrus cream.

It may tout a Michelin star, but The Harwood Arms still trades as a proper local boozer, holding regular quiz nights and pleasing the drinkers with pints of real ale and plates of stupendous venison Scotch eggs, as well as bringing the house down with its thumping Sunday roasts – although the knowledgeably curated 200-bin wine list would put most local pubs to shame. The Harwood Arms has also been alma mater to some impressive names, including Sally Abe and James Cochran.