The Abingdon is exactly what you’d imagine a gastropub to look like in the chichi backstreets of Kensington – blink and you might think it was a wine bar, complete with piano jazz, floral sofas and other buzzy neighbourhood trappings. Only the battered wood floor remains from its previous life, with high-backed leather stools and booths now defining the swanky interiors. The place attracts chic locals who are happy to shell out for smart metropolitan dishes ranging from Parmesan soufflé with a salad of poached apricots, alfalfa, chicory and walnuts to wild halibut with truffled celeriac, chorizo, leek and pomegranate sauce vierge. Steaks and chops get charred in the Bertha oven, while puds might feature chocolate nemesis with marmalade. The kitchen knows its stuff, service is on the ball, and the whole vibe is “very amiable” – you don’t come here to get drunk anymore.